Danish oil isn’t a Danish invention — it’s a catch-all name for penetrating oil finishes. The Rustins version is one of the better ones: a blend of natural oils and alkyd resins that soaks into the timber rather than sitting on top of it. That matters. Surface coatings peel and crack. A penetrating oil bonds with the wood cells and stays put.
It cures harder than straight linseed or tung oil, which is why turners reach for it — you can put it on a bowl and it won’t stay tacky for a week. Once fully cured, it’s water-resistant, durable, and food-safe. That last point matters if you’re finishing cutting boards, salad bowls, or anything that’ll spend time near food.
What timber does it work on?
Most of them. Rustins Danish Oil works across Australian hardwoods, exotics, and softwoods. If the timber is porous enough to absorb oil — and most are — you’ll get a result.
Where it earns its keep:
- Open-grained hardwoods — walnut, blackwood, silky oak. The oil sinks in and brings the grain to life.
- Exotics — purpleheart, padauk, wenge. These can be difficult to finish; Danish oil works well because it doesn’t require a perfectly prepared surface the way film finishes do.
- Turning projects — bowls, boxes, pen blanks. Turners love it because it’s fast, forgiving, and you can apply it on the lathe while the piece is still spinning.
- Furniture and joinery — dining tables, benches, shelves. Three to four coats gives you a finish that handles daily use.
One tip for oily tropical species like teak or padauk: wipe the surface with mineral turpentine first to remove surface oils before you apply. Otherwise the Danish oil won’t bond properly.
How to apply Rustins Danish Oil
Nothing complicated. The main thing is not to rush it.
- Sand to at least 240 grit. 320 is better if you want a cleaner finish.
- Raise the grain once. Wipe with a barely damp cloth, let it dry completely, then sand again lightly with 320. Do this before your first coat — not after — so you’re not fighting raised grain on every coat.
- Apply with a lint-free cloth or fine brush. Work with the grain. Apply it like you mean it, not like you’re afraid of the timber.
- Leave it 30–60 minutes to soak in.
- Wipe off the excess. Don’t leave puddles. Anything that doesn’t absorb just gums up and makes the next coat harder.
- Allow 6–8 hours between coats. Overnight is fine and usually better.
- Repeat. Three coats minimum for decorative pieces. Four to six for surfaces that take a beating — benchtops, dining tables, boards used in the kitchen.
For turners: apply with the lathe at low speed, wait a minute, then buff off with a clean cloth while it’s still turning. Four coats over two sessions and you’re done.
How many coats do you need?
- Decorative pieces (bowls, boxes, pens): 3–4 coats
- Furniture: 4 coats, then top with a wax — U-Beaut EEE Ultrashine buffs up nicely over Danish oil
- Cutting boards and kitchen items: 4–6 coats; let cure for 72 hours before contact with food
Sizes available at Trend Timbers
We stock Rustins Danish Oil in four sizes:
- 250mL — $29.50
- 500mL — $48.50
- 1L — $79.50
- 5L — $249.00
Not sure which size to start with? The 500mL covers most projects two or three times over. The 5L is for anyone who goes through a lot of it — production shops, professional finishers, or if you’re running a turning class.
Order online or come in
Buy Rustins Danish Oil at Trend Timbers — order online with flat-rate shipping Australia-wide, or come in to our Mulgrave store (Mon–Fri 9am–4pm, Sat 9am–12pm).
If you’re not sure which finish suits the timber or the project, call us on 02 4577 5277. We’ve been matching finishes to timber for a while — it’s usually a quick question.